Venice
A city built on water by people who had no alternative, then decorated by people who could afford anything. The difference still shows in the detail, if you know where to look.
The routes
Members only
Venice in the present tense
Art of the present in buildings that used to do something else: a seventeenth-century customs house, a palace that never got past its ground floor, a soap factory, Napoleon's garden. Six stops from the Grand Canal to the Giardini, across museums, foundations and galleries — Guggenheim, Pinault, the Biennale, AMA. Not one day's work: the route is the thread, you choose the visits.
From the Grand Canal to the Giardini · 6 visits · 480 min · Medium
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Going for an ombra
In Venice an ombra is not a patch of shade: it is a small glass of white wine, drunk standing at the counter, and it rarely travels alone. Seven stops through bacari and neighbourhood trattorie, from San Lio to the Giardini, in the part of Castello where the city is a village rather than a postcard. You drink a little at a time and eat standing up: the round matters, not the table.
Castello, from San Lio to the Giardini · 7 visits · 180 min · Easy
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Secret Cannaregio
Half a day away from the crowds, from the church where Tintoretto is buried to the museum of the Ghetto, through courtyards and quaysides where Venice stops posing for photographs.
Cannaregio · 8 visits · 210 min · Easy
Members only
Hidden gems of the Serenissima
Cinque interni che gli itinerari non nominano, tutti in Dorsoduro e tutti a pochi minuti l'uno dall'altro: una delle più grandi superfici dipinte su tela del mondo in una chiesa di parrocchia, un cielo di Tiepolo sopra una confraternita, una chiesa decorata quasi tutta da un uomo solo e una di pescatori foderata d'oro.
Dorsoduro · 5 visits · 195 min · Easy
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